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REVIEWS
The Washingtonian--------------------------
Like its sister establishment in downtown Baltimore, the Columbia Akbar is a friendly, family-run restaurant with excellent Indian food. Lamb, chicken, seafood, and vegetarian specialties celebrate Northern Indian flavors and spices. Tandoori chicken is pleasantly tart and is served in generous portions. Lamb seekh kebab, nuggets of ground meat baked in a clay oven with a dozen spices, is tasty and tender. Specials are good, too: The lamb maharasa, a melt-in-your mouth dish with stewed tomatoes and bell peppers, was a winner. Even basics like biryani and samosas rise above average: The vegetable biryani is buttery-tasting and well spiced, studded with fresh potatoes, peas, cauliflower, onions, carrots, green beans, tomatoes, and chunks of cheese. Samosas are crispy but not greasy on the outside, moist but not crumbly on the inside.
The mostly Indian staff is very accommodating, and the atmosphere, while not memorable, is pleasant. The lunch buffet is very popular.
Akbar, 9400 Snowden River Pkwy. (Columbia Market Place); 410-381-3600. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
— Alicia Abell
October 2000
Baltimore Magazine--------------------------
A crowd on a Sunday night? That should tell you something about Akbar, one of the most popular Indian restaurants in a town with a fair number of good ones. So what makes this place so special? First, the atmosphere, whose cozy warmth captivates the eye while exotic fragrances envelop you. Second, the service. You'll feel like a pampered pasha here. No matter how hectic the place gets, the waitstaff is unfailingly serene. Third, and best of all, is the food. It may not be the most authentic Indian cuisine you'll find, but since "authentic" Indian usually means screaming-from-the-room hot, we can deal with that. Akbar's food is spiced just right for discerning Western palates; you'll taste every nuance of coriander and cumin and cardamom. We love to start with the chicken chat, a cool blend of boneless chicken tossed with piquant tamarind sauce and mango powder. Entree-wise, traditionalists will go for the rogan josh - lamb curry - or a selection from Akbar's excellent specialties, from chicken tikka to prawn kebabs. Those with a taste for something new will adore the shrimp in coconut-based mustard sauce, a blissful Thai-Indian fusion.
But there's plenty more to choose from. One thing we love about Akbar is that the food, especially since a change of chefs a year ago, is consistently fine no matter what you order. Save room for dessert: the kulfi falooda (that's Indian ice cream to you) is yummy.
823 N. Charles St., 539-0944; 3541 Benbrook Dr., Randallstown, 655-1600. Inexpensive.
Baltimore Sun--------------------------------
For the best in traditional low-priced Indian cuisine and impeccable service, you can't beat Akbar. Although the dining room is fairly small, the setting can be quite romantic at night, with candle light, exposed brick walls and the rhythmic pulse of Indian music. There's never much of a wait here, reservations are rarely necessary, and management often makes the rounds to inquire about the quality of the meal. Akbar's bus boys are also so good that a water glass is never half-empty for long.
On top of great service with a smile, you'll get great food. For appetizers, try the vegetable samosa ($3.50) or chicken chaat ($5.50) with potatoes, onions and tamarind. Entree options include excellent tandoori (chicken $10.95, mixed grill $12.95) different curry options, lamb dishes and many vegetarian specialties, such as vegetable jalfreji ($9.95) with cheese and nuts, and palak paneer ($9.95, spinach mixed with Indian cheese). No Indian dinner should start without bread, and Akbar has a delicious selection, including the standard nan ($1.75), onion kulcha ($2.50), and poori ($2, deep fried whole wheat), but try not to fill up on them, as there will be plenty to eat in the substantial main course. For dessert, try the kheer ($2.50), an Indian rice pudding with almonds and raisins.
Akbar also offers a weekend brunch from noon to 3 p.m. for $8.95 and one of the best lunch buffets in town (Monday - Friday, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.). For a mere $6.95, hungry lunchers can choose from 12 items. --Amanda Krotki
Hours: TUE-THU 11:30AM-11:00PM, FRI-SAT 11:30AM-11:30PM, SUN 11:30AM-11:00PM, MON 11:30AM-11:00PM
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